Industrial products are taking up more and more space in bakeries, even those that present themselves as artisanal. To promote “real” craftsmen, a new label has just been introduced by the profession.
Bakery and pastry professionals are divided over a subject that is still taboo in the sector. Industrial preparations, more and more numerous in our bakeries. Inevitable for some, unbearable for others, while a new label “Boulanger de France” was launched on Saturday by the National Bakery-Pastry Confederation to differentiate artisans from those who use industry.
80% of pastries are made from industrial preparations, according to unofficial figures that are rumored in the profession, repeated to franceinfo at the Europain fair which was held on January 11 and 12 in Paris. Sébastien Touflet is the director of the Federation of bakery companies, which brings together manufacturers in the sector. For him the industrial is widespread, and it’s even rather good. “When a craftsman has to make 30 or 40 croissants every day, it’s complicated to have someone who does just that all night, all for very little turnover. So if he can buy these products and rework them, because he still gives his paw at the end, I do not see at all where the problem is.
The term “artisan” is no longer necessarily synonymous with “homemade”
The National Confederation of French Bakery and Pastry, however, sees a very big problem. Dominique Anracq, its president, fights to save the art of “homemade”: “We wanted to launch a quality charter that separates craftsmen from manufacturers. This label, ‘Boulanger de France’, involves making its own bread, pastries, pastries and savory specialities. When artisans make the effort to do all of this, they need recognition.”
But for this baker from the 15th arrondissement of Paris, the Confederation should not even have to create a label. “Why redo a label when you are already called an artisan baker-pastry chef? If that word no longer means anything today, it’s completely ridiculous. The guarantee of quality behind the term artisan-baker remains in any case very important for many consumers, like Liliane: “I only go to bakeries that make their bread on site. And I’m going to buy it when it comes out of the oven, not in the morning for the evening!”